Okay, I’ll admit it. I AM a sewing junkie. The e-mail arrived from The Vintage Pattern Lending Library with my downloadable pattern for the 1912 Princess Slip #E0336. Yes, I jumped around like an idiot. Picture Steve Martin in The Jerk raving like a nut, announcing to no one in particular, ‘The new phone book is here, the new phone book is here!”…. that was me…. only with a pattern. Get the picture?
Well, with taped pattern pieces in hand, and some lovely laundered white cotton lawn, I set to work. Darling hubbie is in the garage working on a base for my sewing table (I think after all these years he’s tired of me hunched over the kitchen table), so it gave me the entire Saturday to really get moving. I’m not great at this blogging thing, and I will post pictures of my progress, but if you can suggest hints to improve this along the way, I would deeply appreciate it.
First, I redrafted the pattern to apply my insertion lace utilizing tips I learned from Martha Pullen for machine application techniques. I didn’t adjust the pattern pieces as using these techniques would yield an additional 1/2 inch in the seam allowance and another 1/2 inch with the insertion lace. 3 seams equaling 3 inches would give me more than enough room to cover my larger than 36 inch bust. The addition to the 3 seams were also perfect to accommodate my larger than the pattern waist as well…. but we won’t go there.
The 4 front pieces were cut at 1/2 inch above the first lace placement line and I built the upper bodice from there.
To attach insertion lace to fabric:
– Place fabric and lace right sides together (lace on top)
– Fabric extends 1/8 inch from lace
– Zigzag off the edge and over the heading of the lace. This rolls the fabric into the lace
– Suggested Machine Settings – Length 0.5 – 1.0, Width 3.5 (almost a satin stitch)
The zigzag stitch rolls the fabric into the lace leaving a secure and clean edge. Then I pressed the seam edge toward fabric and top stitched close to the fabric edge.
After sewing the 4 main pieces together, the fit seemed a bit roomier than I had anticipated so I added a few tucks along the top. Then I applied a row of insertion lace along this, fit a new upper band, and then another row of insertion. I read a few sewists in the ‘1912 Project’ had issues with the side seam not running straight under the arm but with the way I’m building the bodice/front, I don’t think this is going to be an issue for me. I’m basically patching all my pieces together, over sized, and then I’ll trim as needed.
This morning I hope DH goes back to the garage…. I’d like to work on finishing the bodice. I even think I have enough insertion lace to complete the bottom pleated portion – woohoo!